In partnership with

Your mortgage moved before the ECB even sat down, and renters are not off the hook either. It's Wednesday, 22 July. Twenty-seven degrees. Here's what you need to know.

🌬️ AIR QUALITY: 24 (Good).

🗞️ TOP STORY

THE ECB MEETS TOMORROW, BUT THE MOVE THAT MATTERS ALREADY HAPPENED.

The European Central Bank (ECB) meets on Thursday, and most of the coverage is asking whether it raises rates. Wrong question. It already did. In June the ECB lifted its key rate to 2.25%, its first increase since 2023, blaming energy prices driven by the conflict in the Middle East. Markets now put the odds of another move on Thursday at close to nothing, around 88% for a hold, letting June's hike work through the system. The decision to watch already sits behind you. What is still coming is the effect.

This matters more in Portugal than almost anywhere in the eurozone, and it turns on one word: Euribor. That is the interest rate at which eurozone banks lend to each other, and it moves with where the ECB is heading. Almost every mortgage here is variable, meaning the rate is not fixed for the life of the loan but recalculated every few months by adding Euribor to your bank's margin. When the ECB moved in June, Euribor turned upward with it, after two years of falling. If your rate resets on a six or twelve-month cycle, and most here do, you have not felt June's hike yet. You will, at your next review.

Anyone who was here in 2023 might have a clue what is coming. Rates went from under 1% in the cheap years to a peak around 4.65%, and because roughly nine in ten mortgages here are variable, monthly payments jumped 10 to 17% in a single year. This is nowhere near that. One 0.25-point rise is a nudge, not a shock. But it is a nudge in the opposite direction to the one people had started to count on, and the assumption that rates only fall from here has been challenged.

If you rent, you might think this has nothing to do with you. It does, one step removed. When financing costs rose in 2023, landlords tried to pass them to tenants, and the main thing that blunted it was the government's 2% cap on annual rent rises. That cap is exactly what the new rental reform, approved by the government this month, would scrap for new contracts, though it still has to pass parliament and is not law yet. If it goes through as drafted, the protection that softened the last rate cycle for renters would be gone just as rates turn up again. Sitting tenants keep the terms of their existing contracts. Anyone signing a new lease is not as lucky.

None of this means a property crash. Higher rates cooled speculative buying in 2023 but barely dented real demand, because the thing drawing people to Lisbon was never the interest rate, and prices kept climbing anyway. So the likeliest picture is not falling prices, but a market where borrowing costs more, new rents may lose their ceiling, and the affordability squeeze the whole city keeps talking about tightens one more notch.

Bottom line: nothing changes on Thursday, most likely, because the change is already in the pipe. If you are on a variable mortgage, look up when your rate next resets and where Euribor is now, not where it was last year. If you are about to sign a lease, the era of the automatic 2% ceiling may be ending. Neither is a crisis. Both are worth knowing before the letter from the bank or the landlord arrives.

Quick note: today's ad is from our network partner, Q3 Advisors. If it looks interesting, give it a click. Reader clicks are what keep The Lisbon Letter free every morning, and this one takes two seconds.

The #1 Roth Conversion Mistake That Costs Retirees

Most people missed the first Roth conversion window. History is offering a rare second chance — but not a long one.

With today's tax rates extended, IRA Millionaires have a brief stretch of historically low brackets left. When it closes, the math changes: higher rates, bigger required distributions, and fewer conversion opportunities each year you wait.

Craig Wear, CFP®, has spent 15+ years helping more than 3,000 families with $1M+ in IRAs plan Roth conversions — helping them avoid a projected $10B+ in lifetime taxes. His new book, Roth Conversion Reset, is the step-by-step playbook:

Lock in today's low rates
Avoid RMD surprises at 73
Protect your spouse from survivor taxes
Keep more for your heirs

The book is free — no credit card, no shipping. The full PDF lands in your inbox in minutes.

⚡ QUICK HITS

Can a beach be private in Portugal? A court is about to weigh in. A property company is claiming five beaches on the Arrábida coast near Setúbal as private, using a genuine legal loophole. Portuguese beaches have been public domain since 1864, which is why almost everyone assumes all sand is untouchable, but the law recognises ownership proven to pre-date that year, and the company's title runs to an 1852 sale signed under Queen Maria II. A Setúbal court now has to decide what a document from before Portugal had railways is worth in 2026. Whatever it rules, the case has reopened a question the summer keeps raising, as hotels and developments quietly wall off the paths to "their" stretch of coast.

While we are on beaches, most people get the umbrella rule wrong. The Environment Agency has clarified, more than once, that you can put your towel or umbrella in front of a paid concession, as long as you are outside its licensed rectangle, which by law cannot cover more than 30% of the beach. The loungers-for-hire do not own the sand around them. Worth knowing before someone waves you off a public patch this weekend. Also, a loudspeaker on the beach can technically cost you a fine between 200 and 4,000 euros. Don’t know if sharing your personal taste in music with other beach goers is worth that.

A wildfire flared about 10km from central Lisbon as the heat returns. Around 80 firefighters, 25 vehicles and an aircraft were mobilised to a blaze in the Serra da Luz area of Pontinha on Tuesday before bringing it under control. It is a reminder that the fire season is sharpening as temperatures climb again. Nothing near the city centre is at risk, but if you are heading inland or into the hills, check the Instituto Português do Mar e da Atmosfera (IPMA) risk map before you go.

🍽️ SPOT OF THE DAY

Some places are a secret. Zenith is not. It is one of Lisbon's most popular brunch spots, with a weekend queue to match, and it has stayed good despite the crowd rather than coasting on the hype.

It sits near Marquês de Pombal, and the look is polished: plants, tile, good light, a room that photographs well and is comfortable to sit in. The menu is the styled end of brunch done well: eggs benedict on charcoal bread, banoffee pancakes, bagels, and a coconut coffee cloud, an iced coffee topped with a thick coconut cold foam. If someone in your group is gluten-free, vegan or vegetarian, this is a safe bet, because the kitchen handles all three without fuss.

Reckon on a proper brunch spend rather than a café one, mid-teens a plate, more once the speciality coffees and juices arrive. Worth knowing before you go: it is busy, loudly so at peak, and on a weekend you will queue unless you book or arrive near opening. The juices drew a few lukewarm reviews for the price, so spend on the food. It is daytime only, 8am to 5pm on weekdays, an hour later at weekends.

Insider tip: Order the eggs benedict on the charcoal bread, and treat the coconut coffee cloud as dessert rather than your usual cup of joe. If you’re not interested in the specials can’t really go wrong with the rest of the menu either.

📅 WHAT'S ON

  • Ageas CoolJazz (until Fri 31 Jul, Hipódromo Manuel Possolo, Cascais) Diana Krall tonight, Franz Ferdinand on 25 July, Scissor Sisters on 29 July, Chet Faker closing on 31 July.

  • Festival ao Largo (until Sat 25 Jul, Centro Cultural de Belém) Free outdoor symphony, ballet and theatre. Relocated to Belém while Teatro Nacional de São Carlos is renovated.

  • Cine Society (nightly, Príncipe Real Terrace and other rooftops) Open-air rooftop cinema with city and river views. Doors an hour before the film.

  • AgitÁgueda (until Sun 26 Jul, Águeda) Street art, live music and the famous floating umbrellas, all free. Worth the day trip.

  • Feira dos Alfarrabistas (Saturday mornings, Rua Anchieta, Chiado) A weekly second-hand book market. Free to browse.

  • MEO Kalorama (28–30 Aug, Parque da Bela Vista) Robbie Williams, Ms. Lauryn Hill with Wyclef Jean, and Deftones headline Lisbon's last big festival of the summer. Tickets on sale now.

See you tomorrow morning.

Reach Lisbon's English-speaking community, every morning. Advertise with the Lisbon Letter.

Keep Reading