Lisbon is under a red weather warning. The highest level. Temperatures approaching 40°C today with no relief overnight. Cooling centres are open across the city. It's Friday, 3 July. Here's what you need to know.
🌬️ AIR QUALITY: 18 (Good).
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LISBON IS UNDER A RED WEATHER WARNING. HERE'S HOW TO GET THROUGH THE NEXT WEEK.

The Instituto Português do Mar e da Atmosfera (IPMA) placed Lisbon and Setúbal under red alert from midnight last night. This is the highest warning level, signalling an "extreme weather risk situation." By today, 12 districts across mainland Portugal will be under red alert. Temperatures in the interior could reach 44°C. In Lisbon, highs are approaching 40°C. And the nights offer no relief: minimum temperatures are forecast to stay between 24°C and 28°C, what meteorologists call "tropical nights."
IPMA says this heatwave will last at least a week. "Usually we get temperatures like this in August; this year they're happening earlier," said José Bonifácio, a 31-year-old busker in downtown Évora.
The government has responded by asking municipalities to open cooling centres for vulnerable residents. Secretary of State for Health Ana Povo confirmed at a press conference on Wednesday that local authorities are identifying public buildings, churches, shopping centres, and hotels that can serve as climate refuges. The Lisbon City Council has opened a network of cooling centres and has kept selected Metro stations open overnight as air-conditioned shelters. Health Minister Ana Paula Martins acknowledged concerns about the heatwave's potential impact on mortality rates.
For Lisbon residents, the practical advice is straightforward but worth repeating:
Avoid sun exposure between 11am and 4pm. The UV index across Lisbon is forecast at 10-11 (very high to extreme). Sunburn in under 15 minutes without protection. Solar noon in Lisbon occurs around 1:30pm at this time of year, which is when UV exposure peaks.
Hydrate constantly. If you're not thirsty, you're still not drinking enough. Water, not alcohol. Dehydration risk is highest for children, elderly people, and outdoor workers.
Check on your neighbours. The government's cooling centre programme specifically targets elderly and isolated residents. If you know someone who lives alone and doesn't have air conditioning, check in.
The Lisbon Metro and buses are air-conditioned. The trams and the 28E are not. Plan accordingly.
If you're travelling outside Lisbon this weekend, check IPMA before you leave. The fire service activated Delta phase (maximum operational capacity) with 81 aerial assets, including two Black Hawk helicopters deployed for the first time, and over 15,000 firefighters on standby. The area burned in 2026 has doubled compared to the same period last year. The Civil Protection emergency operators remain on strike.
Bottom line: This is a red alert. Not orange. Not yellow. Red. The highest level the system has. Stay cool, stay hydrated, and stay indoors during the hottest hours. The heatwave is forecast to last at least a week.
⚡ QUICK HITS
Portugal beat Croatia 2-1 last night. Gonçalo Ramos headed the winner in the 94th minute. Croatia led through Ivan Perišić in the 53rd. Ronaldo equalised from the penalty spot in the 68th, his first ever World Cup knockout goal. Ramos, who had come on in the 62nd minute, rose to meet Rafael Leão's cross deep in stoppage time to send Portugal through. Croatia had a last-gasp equaliser ruled out for offside. Modrić's World Cup is over. Ronaldo's continues. Portugal face Spain in the Round of 16.
Only 19% of Portuguese homes have earthquake insurance. Lisbon sits on the same seismic fault system that destroyed the city in 1755, killing tens of thousands. Seismologists say a major earthquake in Portugal is not a question of if but when. For expat homeowners and renters, the question is simple: does your insurance policy cover earthquakes? For 81% of Portuguese homeowners, the answer is no. Standard multi-risk policies only mandate fire coverage by law. Earthquake protection is an add-on you have to actively request. Check your policy this weekend.
Portuguese football's refereeing scandal went to the Council of Justice on Wednesday. The Portuguese Football Federation's (FPF) governing body convened to examine the disciplinary complaint filed by the head of the Conselho de Arbitragem following Duarte Gomes's resignation. Gomes alleged external interference in referee appointments. Benfica demanded an emergency meeting. Porto expressed "profound concern." The complaint is now with the Ministério Público. Outcomes from Wednesday's Council of Justice session are expected in the coming days.
2,300 homes have been burgled in Portugal so far this year. The Guarda Nacional Republicana (GNR) is warning residents heading on summer holidays. If you're leaving Lisbon for July or August, the GNR's advice: don't leave shutters fully closed (it signals an empty home), ask a neighbour to collect your post, don't announce your travel plans on social media, put timers on interior lights, and ensure windows and doors are properly secured. The Algarve has the highest density of residential burglaries.
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🍽️ SPOT OF THE DAY

On a tree-lined square in Santos, under branches that provide the only shade worth having when Lisbon hits 40°C, a Scottish-Portuguese couple opened a kiosk and named it after their dog.
Quiosque do Pipo sits at Largo de Santos 13, part of Lisbon's centuries-old quiosque tradition but doing something different with it. The menu is globally influenced rather than the standard pastries and bicas: steak sandwiches, loaded fries, yucca fries with a green sauce that reviewers describe as addictive, fish tacos from guest kitchen takeovers, and themed specials (haggis sandwiches on Burns Night, because the Scottish half of the ownership is not here to blend in).
The natural wine list rotates through pop-ups and is better than it has any right to be at a kiosk. The spicy margarita has been called the best in Lisbon by Roadbook magazine and by enough reviewers that the claim has become difficult to dispute. The cocktails are treated with the same care as a proper bar, which is unexpected from a counter with no walls.
Roadbook included Quiosque do Pipo in their 11 best restaurants in Lisbon for 2026. One reviewer wrote: "I ended up staying for six hours because the vibes were so good." Another: "Easily becoming the best quiosque in Lisbon." The owners' two dogs are usually on site, which is either a feature or an irrelevance depending on your relationship with dogs. For most people here, it's a feature.
The honest notes: outdoor only. No indoor seating. No air conditioning (shade is the climate control). On hot days, arrive after 6pm when the square cools and the trees start earning their rent. Prices are €10-15 per person. Cash and card. Open Wednesday to Sunday, 1pm-9pm.
Santos, at Largo de Santos 13.
Insider tip: Order the spicy margarita and the yucca fries with green sauce. Sit under the trees. Stay longer if there’s a breeze.
📅 WHAT'S ON
Festival ao Largo (starts today, Fri 3 to Sat 25 Jul, CCB) Free outdoor symphony, ballet, and theatre.
Lisb-On #Jardim Sonoro (today and tomorrow, Fri 3 to Sat 4 Jul, Parque Eduardo VII) Moved from Monsanto due to the heatwave. Ben Sims, CamelPhat, Sven Väth, Anfisa Letyago. 2pm-2am.
Lisboa Football Arena (ongoing, Terreiro do Paço) World Cup big screens. Free.
Iron Maiden (Tue 7 Jul, Estádio da Luz) Run for Your Lives 50th anniversary tour.
Scorpions (Wed 8 Jul, MEO Arena) Coming Home 2026 Tour.
NOS Alive (Thu 9 to Sat 11 Jul, Passeio Marítimo de Algés) Foo Fighters headline Friday.
Jardins de Verão at Gulbenkian (ongoing to Sun 12 Jul) Summer concerts and performances.
Out Jazz (Sundays, May through September, various parks) Free.
See you tomorrow morning. Stay cool.
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