470,000 pilgrims are heading to Fátima today. Here's what you need to know.

Good morning, Lisbon. It's Wednesday, 13 May. Eighteen degrees, overcast. If you are driving north today, read this first.

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470,000 PILGRIMS ARE CONVERGING ON FÁTIMA TODAY. HERE'S WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW.

Today is the 13th of May, the anniversary of the first Marian apparition in 1917, and roughly 470,000 people are expected to pass through the Sanctuary of Fátima over the course of the pilgrimage period. The candlelit procession began last night. Today's mass at the Cova da Iria is the peak event of the year.

If you have lived in Portugal for more than a few months, you know this date exists. If you are new, here is what it means in practice: the IC2 highway through Aveiro, Coimbra, and Leiria has been under rolling closures since May 8, with tens of thousands of pedestrian pilgrims walking the route from across Portugal. The A1 will be significantly slower than usual today and tomorrow. Infraestruturas de Portugal has recommended secondary roads for anyone driving through the central region. The GNR launched "Operation Safe Pilgrimage 2026" on May 4, with 300 emergency personnel deployed, including 170 firefighters from 29 brigades, medical teams from INEM, the Portuguese Red Cross, and the Republican National Guard.

The practical note: if you are not going to Fátima, avoid the A1 and the IC2 entirely today and tomorrow. The N110 and IC9 are the recommended alternatives for bypassing the A1 and IC2 through the Santarém and Leiria region. CP trains and regional buses are running on modified schedules. Check before you travel. Road closures typically last until the early morning of May 14.

The event itself is worth understanding even if you never intend to go. Fátima is the largest regular religious gathering in Western Europe. The sanctuary draws over six million visitors a year, and the May 13 pilgrimage is the single biggest day. Pilgrims walk from across Portugal, some barefoot, some on their knees for the final approach. The candlelit procession on the night of May 12, led by the bishop, fills the vast plaza in front of the Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary with hundreds of thousands of flickering flames. It is, by any measure, one of the most extraordinary things that happens in this country, and it happens 125 kilometres from your front door.

Many of the English-speaking expats who read this newsletter come from countries where this scale of public devotion is unfamiliar. If you have never witnessed it, the May 13 pilgrimage is worth at least understanding. If you have the time and the curiosity, the October 13 pilgrimage (marking the final apparition and the "Miracle of the Sun") is the one to plan around. But today, at minimum, know that half a million people are heading north, and adjust your day accordingly.

Bottom line: Half a million pilgrims. Road closures across central Portugal. Modified public transport. If you are driving north, take an alternative route. If you are staying in Lisbon, enjoy the quieter roads.

⚡ QUICK HITS

60% of Lisbon council rents are under €100 a month. 30% are under €25. These figures, reported last week, describe Portugal's municipal housing stock in Lisbon, where legacy tenants on old contracts pay rents that belong to a different era. Private room rents in the same city average €550. A two-bedroom flat in Estrela costs €1,800-2,500. The two Lisbons exist in the same postcode but on different planets.

Portuguese TV workers are calling for a Eurovision boycott. RTP staff have signed an open letter urging Portugal to withdraw from Eurovision, which begins this weekend. The letter frames participation as inconsistent with the broadcaster's stated values. Whether you care about Eurovision or not, the fact that a state broadcaster's own employees are publicly pushing back is unusual.

Renova just launched Pokémon toilet paper. Renova, the Portuguese brand famous for being the first company in the world to sell black toilet paper, has released a licensed Pokémon range. It launched first in South Korea and is now arriving in Europe. If you need something to smile about on a Wednesday morning, this is it.

🍽️ SPOT OF THE DAY

AMÉLIA (CAMPO DE OURIQUE)

If you went to the Mercado de Campo de Ourique on yesterday's recommendation, you already know the neighbourhood. Amélia, two blocks up on Rua Ferreira Borges, is the other reason Campo de Ourique has become one of the most talked-about food neighbourhoods in Lisbon.

Amélia opened in March 2018 as the second location from the Nicolau family, the popular Baixa brunch spot, and has since outgrown the comparison entirely. The room seats about 70 people across an indoor space and a courtyard terrace that fills with natural light in the morning and stays warm through the afternoon. The decor is colourful, photogenic, and designed with enough personality that you notice it without it dominating the meal. The courtyard, lined with plants and sheltered by parasols, is one of the best outdoor brunch spaces in the city.

The menu runs all day and leans toward the kind of food that photographs well and also actually tastes good, which in the Lisbon brunch scene is a rarer combination than it should be. The pancakes are the signature and they are genuinely excellent: tall, fluffy, and served with toppings that change seasonally. The eggs Benedict are reliable. The Goan-style prawn curry (caril de camarão) is the dish that surprises first-time visitors who came expecting avocado toast and found something more ambitious. The chicken bowl with red rice, sweet potato, and avocado is the lunch order that regulars come back for. Strong vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free options throughout.

The queue on weekends is real. Reservations are available during the week and after 5pm on weekends. If you are going on a Saturday or Sunday morning, arrive before 10am or prepare to wait.

→ Over 6,000 reviews and still holding at 4.6 stars. There's a reason for that ←

Rua Ferreira Borges 101, Campo de Ourique. Open daily, 9am to 9pm. Phone: +351 213 850 863. A 15-minute walk from Jardim da Estrela, or take the Tram 28 to Prazeres and walk two minutes.

Insider tip: Come on a Wednesday morning. The room is calm, the courtyard is half-empty, and you can linger without the weekend rush. Order the Goan-style prawn curry instead of the pancakes. It reflects Portugal's connection to its former colonies in a way most brunch spots never attempt. You can always come back for the pancakes.

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See you tomorrow morning.